Thursday, May 5, 2016

Better Late Than Never: Ireland

At first, I was pretty nervous about traveling by myself for spring break. It was the first time I had ever been completely on my own before. What if I got lost? What if I got mugged? What if I needed to contact someone and I had no phone service? To be fair, I did forget my AIB phone charger over the break, so with the exception of the first few days, I was kind of accidentally off the grid when not within range of wifi. Which was just about all the time. And this is, of course, where the adventure starts.

I got into Dublin around 10 at night. I was exhausted from traveling and quite hungry. I'd heard good things about Ireland's gluten free food selection and I was about to put that to the test. I was absolutely not disappointed. I went to an Italian place I'd looked up and to my excitement, the gluten free menu the host handed me was positively huge! I honestly thought he was mistaken, that he handed me the wrong menu, until I saw the words at the top: "Gluten-Free." So I filled up on delicious pasta and headed back to my hostel. I woke up some 5 hours later and before I knew it, I was on a tour bus heading toward Galway.

I could immediately tell that the bus driver was a nice person. I knew because right after we embarked, we turned a corner and there were some pigeons in the road. I expected her to just keep driving, not acknowledging them. Pigeons are, after all, typically seen as pest animals (much to my dismay; they're actually pretty smart animals). But instead, the bus driver said in her wonderful Irish accent, "Ohh, look out pigeons, I don' wan' to flatten ya!" as she veered a little to the side to avoid them. I know it's such a small, strange thing to remember, but this little act of kindness set the mood for the rest of the entire trip.

The drive to Galway was mostly uneventful and, in fact, the first half of it could be summed up with just one word: bogs. I had no idea Ireland had so many bogs. Everyone thinks of rolling green hills and sheep out at pasture, and there are plenty of both to be sure. But the bogs are something else. The result of ancient forests that once stood in their place thousands of years ago. Such history they've seen. The bogs are somber and bleak, yet strangely beautiful in their own way.

Upon changing buses in Galway, I was headed for Kylemore Abbey, a castle built along a small lake out in those rolling green hills mentioned previously. The entire scene looks like something out of a fairy tale, and in fact, it sort of is. The history of its founding is essentially a love story. And, as is typical of any authentic folktale worth half a euro, it's a love story that ends in tragedy and death. Sometime after the original owner's passing, the castle came into the company of a group of Benedictine nuns. Since the 1920s, the castle has served as school and home to hundreds of young girls. The (not so) inner feminist in me walked gleefully through the castle gardens and halls, knowing that so many young women, both from Ireland and other parts of the world, received their education here (including the sciences and mathematics!) at a time when women where not commonly encouraged to obtain one.


After Kylemore Abbey, I toured the picturesque Connemara region and then headed back for Galway. I checked into the hostel, climbed the stairs to my room, and fell asleep about as soon as my head hit the pillow.

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