Thursday, May 5, 2016

Better Late Than Never: Cong, the Burren, and Cliffs, Oh My!

My second day in Ireland was even more eventful than the first, and it started off with the snooze button. I woke up late and rushed to get ready and check out of the hostel. I hurriedly bought a brownie at the little café in Galway's main bus station (because of course they had gluten free brownies), though the day ended up being so busy that it wasn't eaten until the next day.

The first stop was Cong village, a tinier-than-tiny village in Ireland's Mayo county. Never heard of Cong? Perhaps calling it by its other name will ring a few bells. Cong is also referred to as the Quiet Man village, because it is where the 1950s movie of the same name was filmed, and I'm pretty sure the locals will not let you leave Cong without knowing this fact. There's even an official "Quiet Man Fan Club" with their own building and everything. The Quiet Man may be the reason most people visit Cong, but it's actually probably the least interesting thing about this village.

On one side of Cong lie the ruins of an abbey that dates back to the 12th century. The dirt ground that covers the surrounding cemetery is the same as the dirt ground covering what was once the inside of the cathedral, where monks studied and prayed some centuries before.

Only upon walking through the abbey and exiting out the other side will you come to a series of small streams. I crossed the bridges over these streams and found a small stone house in ruins and lacking a roof (much like the abbey itself), built on the water. A small hole was carved into the center of the house's foundation, exposing the river flowing beneath it. The structure I was standing in was the monks fishing house, where the abbey monks once fished for their food under the shelter provided by the house walls (and, at one time, its roof).

The next stop after Cong was the Burren. Burren sounds like the word 'barren,' and at first glance, it seems like an appropriate name for the place. The region is dominated by rocks and crags, giving it a grey, lifeless appearance. But the small patches of grass you see here and there are analogous to the tip of an iceberg. In reality, the majority of the flora and fauna of this region exist and flourish several meters below the surface, in between the massive cracks in the rock. Indeed, the Burren contains 75% of all floral species found in Ireland and it is an ecological hotspot for much of the country's wildlife. It is also where the Poulnabrone dolmen can be found. Dolmens are ancient burial sites, marked by gigantic flat stones arranged to create a sort of archway over the grave entrances. The bigger the dolmen, the more important the people buried within them were, and the Poulnabrone dolmen is massive. Dolmen are sometimes also called portal tombs, because some civilizations believed them to be doorways, portals to the next world, the afterlife. And I have to say, though I'm not religious and not superstitious, there is something otherworldly about being in the midst of Poulnabrone, which has stood in the Burren for the last 6000 years.


The last major stop of the day was the Cliffs of Moher. The tour guide gave everyone two hours to spend wandering the cliffs and initially I thought that sounded like plenty of time. But by the time my two hours were up, I realized I could have spent the whole day there. The cliffs are world-famous and, being there, it was easy to see why. The view from them is absolutely breath-taking. I could write a thousand words about the beauty of the cliffs, but in truth, they're indescribable. Anyone wanting to know will just have to see it for themselves someday.

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